ST. ANSELM 355 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn 718-384-5054
By R. Mateo
The NYC chophouse is a personal choice, one held dear and established from a cultivated relationship over time, tested and cheated on, either in search of a better steak or restaurant, or just to check the chops of the favorite.
It used to be the cut of beef that decided the winner, and then the service, and wine list. Location didn’t matter as much as evidenced by the hordes of masses who still trek out to the obscure Peter Luger’s Williamsburg location. But now that any restaurant can get their hands on great aged prime beef, the choices boil down to other factors, such as price and ambiance. The current trend is to serve a cote de bouef, supposedly to share among two or three diners, for example, priced appropriately at Minetta Tavern, not so much at Fatty Cue.
Then there’s the rest of the menu to consider, because although your primary purpose is to get a great steak, your dining companions may want a salad or seafood. Keen’s is good for the “mutton”chop. The Palm for its variety. Lamb chops are nice at Luger’s, but the rest of the menu fails miserably (wine too).
Finally, there’s wagyu, high priced Japanese beef which should be placed in its own category. I tend to head over to Japan Premium Beef on Great Jones Street to by fresh direct for home cooking as restaurant prices for this beef are through the roof.
The solution to the modern steakhouse is being embraced by two restaurants, St. Anselm and Mas La Grillade. The trick to both of these similar, but decidedly different restaurants is that they are not steak houses at all. Their philosophy is to grill every item on the menu and also include a great steak. Then add all the necessary ingredients, wine list, other menu choices, great service, and ambiance (not stuffy or men’s club) to boot.
As the dining scene in Williamsburg continues to offer interesting cooking, a short walk off Bedford across from Fette Sau the unassuming storefront that leads to St. Anselm. Rather than a religious motif, the space is adorned with tools of the woodsman’s trade, saws, and other gadgets, carved ceilings from a Northwestern Edward Scissorhands, warm wooden tables flanking the open bar and kitchen. The grill is pitted opposite its own seating at the bar, although with the amount of smoke emanating, I wonder why anyone would choose to sit there save for smoking their clothing for a lingering effect after dinner.
The best strategy to tackle the menu is to come in a group of hungry eaters. That way many items can be ordered and shared (the day where everyone orders their own plate is dead). Before anything, put in your order for the axe handle rib eye which takes time to grill. Ask for the portion weights depending on party size. Start with the excellent sardines for pristine smoky and briny flavors. Skip the shrimp and avocado salad as bland, as well as the underperforming artichoke hearts aioli. The pea greens and long beans are held together with a meaty, firm cheese called Haloumi, but also come in second to the sardines. Better to go for the bibb salad or the iceberg and blue with hot bacon dressing. Not a leaf will remain unturned.
A great bargain is the butcher’s steak with garlic butter, a dish I wish were available at every diner across the land, but for some reason is usually poorly executed. There would be no shame in ordering this dish again and again. It is priced to steal and that satisfyingly good. On the theme of budget, the classic patty melt also delivers, but not to be outdone by a head and foot attached sweet tea brined chicken, with a luminous warm glaze induced by the tea brine, making for one delicious, bone sucking bird. Less interesting but well prepared are the fish entrees, whole mackerel or trout, which are toothsome but don’t have the depth of the meats. Better to order the prawns and scallops as appetizers.
The lamb shoulder blade chop was a tad chewy when I had it. I have yet to order the saddle chop but plan to in the future. Sides of a lean spinach gratin stand out among the sides. The bacon is good but superfluous (did I really say or mean that?) as well as the artery attack bone marrow, just overkill. I prefer the blistered shishito peppers and the honest fingerlings to the mashed potatoes and long beans.
The other difficult choice is an eclectic, reasonable wine list, with lots of stars to choose from in all price ranges. Dabble in the orange wine section and move on to some new wave cult California and Oregon Winemakers. Or play it safe with great French, Spanish and Italian producers. The beers are first rate. Choose from IPA to Geuze. There is a disproportional devotion to new wave Cali Cult Cabs such as the Scholium project, Erna Schein and Sean Thackery. Not sure quite what the agenda is here. Better still is a nice short list of Grower Champagnes, lead by the big houses of the Cote de Bar, Fleury and Drappier as well as an orange wine section (skin contact wines) led by the masters, Movia, Gravner and Damijan, and the price is right. Even Vin Jaune can be sampled by the glass from greats Puffeney and Tissot. Overall the wines are value driven and express true terroir, a wine list that is actually affordable and fun.
As there is no pastry chef, the desserts are playful and an after thought. Consume sweet if you must, but better to save room for an additional protein.
ROOSTER SCORE: 
PRICE PER PERSON (PPP): $$
To be Continued Review of Mas La Grillade
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