Bar Reviews *NEW*
B FLAT 277 Church St 212.219.2970
February 25, 2010
By R.A.Mateo
Libation spots are few and far between in Tribeca, or Triburbia as I have heard it called. Bars tend to be run of the mill, unremarkable, nondescript drinking holes, like The Patriot or Raccoon Lounge, and other forgettable parlors where mixology is certainly not practiced.
Thankfully there are establishments such as B Flat, blurring the line between speakeasy and cocktail bar, all the while paying homage to a well known Japanese appreciation for American jazz.
The room has a hotel-clubby feel, clad in dark wood and hushed tones, but the cool tunes distract and transport. A fleeting glance at the bar set-up and you know you are in a temple for the art of mixing drinks. The manager, Hashimoto, subscribes to a cool hand Luke style of mixing, utilizing different ice shapes (carved in house) according to the order. No flashy vigorous shaking, just the right wrist action, controlled and effective. Some Japanese ingredients are in play, such as sake, yuzu, calpico, lychee, shiso and wasabi, but traditional standards are also expertly executed. There is a nice sake and schochu list to choose from as well. Just be careful not to mix too much.
The names of the drinks could be lyrics to a jazz song, such as a “lady in satin” “misty” over a “moment’s notice”, and if you don’t want “stardust” in your eyes, order some food off the short small plates menu, with decent sashimi, fried chicken, and eel spring rolls. Follow that up with pork belly or duck magret, and you can order another drink or two.
At some point in the evening, either during a delicious sip or after coming up for air emerging from the basement, you realize B Flat is a return to civilization, with professionals who care about jazz and food and drink, a proper combination of ingredients if there ever was one.
