Chef Mateo

Ditch Plains                                          29 Bedford Street       212.633.0202

 by Rafael Mateo

 
June 1, 2007

The West Village is laden with tourist traps and bad food, but tucked away in nooks and turns one can also find riches concentrated on a single block or avenue. Such is the case with Bedford Street, which has fast become my favorite multi strike option late night dining experience.  On a block where the Blue Ribbon empire seems to be taking over the neighborhood, sandwiched in there is Ino, AOC Bedford, and Ditch Plains with its corner stake. Each one of these places offer great food and value, but it’s Ditch Plains which seems to be built for the everyday man or woman.

Named after a surf spot in Montauk, only the two flat screens above the bar playing surfing videos and beach style rock music let you in on the vibe of this “clam shack”. The feel of Ditch Plains is decidedly Marc Murphy, proprietor of Landmarc in Tribeca and the newly opened Landmarc in that great mall at Columbus Circle. Brick plays off of steel and iron and glass forming an industrial mecca to dining. Especially late night, paying homage to what have become American classics. The ingenuity is not just that Landmarc serves marrow bones and sweet breads along with burgers and pastas, but that a wine list with very little mark up can be had in half bottles and splits. The selection is varied and well chosen, sucking the air out of the word haughty.

At Ditch Plains the room is almost too vast for its meager seating arrangements, its ceiling too vaulted for comfort. Yet after, a terrific pint of Saranac Pale Ale and thumbing through the paint swatch menus, you can’t help but feel comfortable.

Start with a dozen pristine oysters for $24.00 (double the price across the way at Blue Ribbon) and a split of Laurent Perrier for $12.00, and you’ll start to make plans over just how much you are going to eat and drink on this particular visit. There are clams and fried oysters and a catch of the day, calamari, shrimp, mussels, and salmon tartar, all of which are quite delicious and seaworthy.

Breakfast is served all day and night, so don’t miss out on the grits or the hash browns, both of which are expertly done. I usually opt for what amounts to a totally addicting array of classics. The macaroni and cheese comes in a bubbling tiny white cauldron of a dish, oozing sharp cheese flavors and aromas. This dish is very difficult to share. Two hot dogs cooked perfectly also do the trick, and in a city which has fast become the burger capitol of the world, Ditch Plains hold its own, serving a juicy respectable version.

At this point switch to a rosé from Provence, or a versatile Barbera, again all half bottles, allowing you to switch in and out of moods seamlessly. Deck yourself out with a meaty lobster roll, packed with chunks of meat and not doused in mayo, leaving a mouthful of lingering impression. Compliment whatever you’re having with great side dishes of creamed corn, bacon or sausages bright with fennel. 

Trying to get a meal during prime time (8 pm to 10 pm) may prove difficult. But this is an absurd hour to eat anyway. It seems that many diners feel that this is the best time to eat, when every restaurant is absolutely jammed and your reservations are seldom honored (hence the wait at the crowded bar so you can spend more money). Stroll into out Ditch Plains after 10 pm, when the room has cooled off a bit, and you can almost feel like you’ve gone surfing too, dude.
 

ROOSTER RATING:  

PPP - PRICE PER PERSON:  $40.