Chef Mateo

YAKITORI TOTTO 251 W. 55th St., 212.245.4555

By Rafael Mateo

June 26, 2007

As summer is synonymous with barbecue, New Yorkers scramble to the Hamptons, city parks or rooftops and dust off those Webber grills to enjoy the grilling season which seemed to take so long to finally arrive. An alternate solution is to head over to places such as Blue Smoke, R.U.B., or Daisy May’s BBQ, but I’ve always felt that barbecue is best enjoyed outdoors. One solution off the beaten path is yakitori, or grilled chicken on a stick, Japanese streetfare that focuses on all parts of an everyday chicken. At Yakitori Totto, in midtown, chicken on a stick is lofted to exemplary heights.

Located on the second floor near where the infamous soup nazi grunted to customers, a long stairwell leads to a short jaunt to Tokyo, with an elegant bar facing the grill, separated by a transparent glass and a command center of grillers attentively devoted to their skewers. There’s a dining room with egg shells adorning the walls and two private booths which are customary in many Japanese establishments.

The menu is quite extensive, catering to all palates, whether it be seafood, meat or vegetables. Start with the silken zara tofu, a massive shimmering block that reminded me of fresh buffalo mozzarella, enhanced by sprinkles of plum salt. The karaage (deep fried chicken) is expertly fried, lightly battered and crispy, but don’t miss out on the deep fried octopus, a sure-fire treat. Spice it up with kimchee, a nod to Korean cuisine, who knows a thing or to about grilling as well.

There is a short but careful selection of sake, but after a chilled earthenware mug of draft Sapporo, opt for the schochu, the Japanese and Korean style vodka which contains up to 20% less sugar than other vodkas. Drink it on the rocks with lemon or ume (plum) or with a selection of fresh fruit which is served with a juicer - the grapefruit was brilliant.

The tamago, some say is a good indicator of the quality of a restaurant, and at Totto the omelette is soft-rolled and ethereal. There are fish cakes too, with great texture and flavor.

All attention must now be pointed towards the yakitori, with parts standard and discarded normally, all revered as delicacy at Totto. Skin, gizzards, and liver are considered standard orders. As only organic chickens are carved up for the yakitori, the poultry will arrive on the rare side, and you should not be afeared. If you arrive early enough, in limited supply only, there is a selection of neck, tail, heart, and soft bone, grilled to perfection.

There are other chicken dishes which are charcoal broiled with raw egg, or garlic sauce and scallions, but the satisfaction and the joy lies in the yakitori, succulent pieces of gristle and tender meat and cartilage with salt and pepper.

Other options include prawns, kurobuta (organic pork), and eggplant, asparagaus wrapped in bacon, meatballs, and kobe beef tongue too. For vegetables the standouts are shishito, slightly spicy green peppers and mushrooms, enoki, shiitake and eringi, packed with umami. Some are accented with wasabi, miso, ponzu or shiso and all of it is tasty and delicious.

If, somehow, there is room left, finish with a bowl of porridge or udon noodles, which are prepared quite nicely, but I prefer the onigiri, rice balls stuffed with plum, salmon, or spicy cod roe. Chef’s specials are always fascinating, as one night I swooned over grated Japanese radish with raw quail egg, as adventurous a flavor combo as any.

Service is courteous and high-tech (orders are placed thru palm pilots), and it is difficult to get a spot at the lively bar after Wednesday night. Alas, such is the price for such an efficient, elegant izakaya.

 

ROOSTER SCORE:

PPP - PRICE PER PERSON: $45.