Chef Mateo

THAI MARKET  960 Amsterdam Ave  (107 &108) 212 280-4575

 
October 30, 2007

By Rafael Mateo

Aside form Starbuck’s, banks and Duane Reade/Rite Aid stores, the Upper West Side has become home to a growing number of Asian influenced restaurants. With such a richly mixed melting pot of residents, there are many options for Mexican, Criolla (Latino), Indian, Japanese, Italian, French, fast food and Thai-Vietnamese.

Having never visited Thailand, I can only rely on my good senses or dining companions who often make complaints that Thai food in New York is never authentic enough.

To tackle this question of authenticity, rating a Thai restaurant should be done by these three criteria: heat, portion, & true flavors. Things such as décor and service are just window dressing for a true Thai experience. After all, the best food is supposed to be sold out on the street.

Thai Market is located on an unlikely enough street, a seedy stretch of Amsterdam Avenue that has reluctantly been unable to clean up its act of thugs and shady activity, despite condensely housing several families and Columbia students. To that effect it shines brightly against the graying canvas of run down operations holding on to the last leases of a forgotten era, and may spur others businesses to reshape the neighborhood.

I have dined at Thai Market over the span of several months, giving the staff a chance to work out the kinks. That being admitted I felt the service and food is a notch above when I first visited, prompting returns and praise.

The open air seating is appealing, if not for looking onto Amsterdam Avenue at a parade of livery cabs and street dwellers. I prefer the seating along the wall with props set up as a photo shoot at a Thai street market, hence the name. The still shots are blown up, and the lights exposing nuances of the scenes; the gimmick works to great effect. Nice photo art paired with food, providing for a more sensual-perceptive experience.

The menu is extensive and set up tapas style, the fashion for today. I’m not sure if this is intentional, but portions are more artful than bountiful. This doesn’t concern me, as long as the prices are reasonable and the plates keep coming.

The starters were hit and miss, from the forgettable curry puff, (puff pastry must find a way to the grave), to the ho-hum spring roll. Go ahead and order calamari if you must. Better to opt for Por Pia Sod, a steamed spring roll filled with juicy Thai pork sausage and smoked tofu, or the Thai Market crepe with coconut flake and cilantro. The best by far is the Daikon cake, light crispy, topped with Chinese chives. If you’re in a group, order two, one for you and one for rest.

There are a number of grilled items which are also satisfactory, from the basic chicken sate to the more flavorful Thai meatballs in tamarind glaze. There’s squid and shrimp too, but don’t expect any pleasant surprises.

I expected the soups to be earthier and spicier, like so many other versions I’ve had, but their flavors were a tad muted.

You can look for solace in one of the very well crafted salads.  The Nam Sod spruces up napa cabbage with minced pork, ginger and bird’s eye chili (good for heat). A cool option is the Som Tum, a plate of green papaya, chili, long beans, tomato and peanuts.

Anytime you can sneak skirt steak into a plate and call it a salad I’m a fan. The Yum Neau is classically prepared accented with mint, red onion, watercress and rice.

The main courses are varied and satisfying, coming in at ten dollars per plate, relative bargains. This is where Thai Market really attempts to introduce and integrate flavors

Pa-nang curry plates chicken in coconut milk, but also adds kaffir lime leaf and long hot chilis for balance. Pad Sapparod uses sri-ra-cha sauce to good effect for shrimp or chicken with pineapple. There are a couple of eggplant dishes, but as I am not crazy about eggplant, you can be the judge.

The standouts as far as the specialties go are the whole fish dishes. The pan-roasted red snapper, a hearty size with the correct degree of doneness accented by a tamarind glaze and the fried trout, with aromatic mushroom flavors serve the end of the repast well.

Alas there are several versions of fried rice, each of which can be skipped, and a barely passable Pad Thai that does nothing to stimulate excitement.

Despite these uneven misses, the overall experience at Thai Market is worth returning to; Amsterdam Avenue is stepping up.  Let’s help it stay that way.

ROOSTER SCORE:

 

PPP: $30.