Yakiniku Izakaya Riki 250 E. 52nd St.: 212-826-4255
By Rafael Mateo
December 11, 2007
In a city that never sleeps, late nite options for dining is not as vast as one might think. Just a lot of push carts, stale deli sandwiches and tired 24 hour diners. A kitchen that is open until four must have commitment and resolve. One striving to keep tradition alive as well even more so. It is great that you can grab a meal at Ssam Bar until 2:30 am, or Blue Ribbon, but real hunger guides me to Korean or Japanese grilling. At Yakiniku Izakaya Riki, you will find that not only are there seats for you at 3:30 am, but an array of lean meats or shabu shabu to boot.
Aside from the shabu shabu, a delicious cauldron of broth awaiting the diner’s dip and serve, and some forgettable sushi/sashimi, focus on the left hand side of the menu and you can do no wrong. From short ribs to skirt steak, kurobuta (Berkshire pig) to organic chickens, and a selection of well marbled Wagyu, each palette needs only a sizzle here, and a flip of the chopstick there, before melt in your mouth satisfaction can be enjoyed.
The restaurant is divided into several semi-private booths, each with a grill in the center for everyone’s access. Towards the rear is a section for large parties requiring no shoes. On most late nights/early mornings, patrons can be heard, already soused with cold beer, shochu, or sake, drunk in mass quantities so as to allay the effects of a hearty dinner.
Starters are quite good, from edamame to gyoza, but the cod roe omelette is a standout. Quickly get to the beef. There are two grades of beef offered, one being Wagyu and the other prime. The differences are subtle, and can be overlooked if cooking time on the grill exceeds a quick sear. Whoever is running the grill should be aware of this, or else it’s every griller for themselves.
There is kurobuta sausage with a side of mustard and sauerkraut as well as pork belly which if left on long enough turns crispy, but these are no match for the flavorful beef liver which can almost be consumed as sashimi.
Many of these dishes beg for re-ordering, especially if you are in a large group and were unable to sample more than one piece of your favorite cut. I’ve never left less than full however, and have always needed a serious siesta afterwards. The staff is very attentive, and judging by the amount of raucous patrons who leave Yakiniku merrymaking, you are almost certain to have a good time, even if vicariously so.
ROOSTER RATING:
PPP: $50.
