by Rafael Mateo
The line between fine cuisine and good ethnic eats is faint, as delicate as a particular dish’s culinary heritage. Quite often, especially in the New York dining arena, these blurred lines can be problematic for a restaurant, as solid, inexpensive food in a fancy venue proves false, and fancy food in a less than pristine venue can seem discordant. Nonetheless, allowances can be made, in boroughs such as Brooklyn and Queens, where patrons are more forgiving and less swayed by positive internet buzz or press from the foodie paparazzi.
Such is the case for La Superior, the Williamsburg Slumdog Millionaire of small establishments, whose mission is to correct the concept of what is genuine, authentic Mexican food, framed by a slightly hipster attitude focused on an absolutely simple yet stellar approach to the authentic flavors of Mexico.
It is here the idea of Mexican cooking must be discussed, much in the same ilk as Italian cuisine is compared to an Italian-American approach. So much of what we as diners are used to is a Tex-Mex hybrid of what is Mexican, guacamole and nachos and oversized burritos, devoid of any real spice or soul – acceptable food to accompany the slushing of margaritas, an abomination to great tequilas of the day.
To unequivocally answer the burning question I often hear from savvy NYC denizens and tourists alike – “Is there any good, real Mexican food here?” – is now safely no longer a source of utter embarrassment. The only decent options are 116th street in East Harlem or the taco trucks that dot Queens and other street corners. The boasting about Chicago and San Diego can also take a much needed siesta.
At the forefront of righting what has been missing from the vast and historic culinary tradition – Mexican cuisine – is La Superior, the little engine that could, the underdog of the Nacho Libre world, wrestling with what is correct vs. what has been expected. Thankfully, people understand its aim. Mercifully it is only one stop to Bedford street on the L train rather than a less recession-friendly plane ride to Puebla.
The interior of the restaurant is spartan, with no overt attempt to evoke the feeling of being in Mexico. At the bar there are vintage posters of Mexican cinematic propaganda, and other ethnic accents here or there, but nothing is designed to steer you away from the reason to be there – the food.
There are various ways to construct a satisfying meal here. May I suggest to bring friends and order just about everything, for most of the fare is satisfying, uplifting and at some level interesting for contrast. Skip the guacamole, as this is one of the only Mexican staples that some restaurants actually manage to get right. Instead start with one of the sopas (soups). Perhaps one of the unsung heroes of classic Mexican cooking is the soup, hearty, aromatic, and life-curing. At La Superior the sopa de lima, a dish hailing from the Yucatan peninsula, spices up the idea of chicken soup and clears the palate of any lingering doubts about feeling good. For a bowl of soup with more substance, order the sopa de tarasca, a Michoacan highlands treat, black beans simmered with ancho pepper and farmer’s cheese, a veritable upgrade from the black bean soups that we are accustomed to at American and Tex-Mex diners. Then opt for the ezquites, a bit messy sure, but a corn on the cob experience straight from the streets of any Mexican pueblita, cooked with epazote leaves, fresh cheese, lime and mayo – a street delicacy that should be as mandatory at street fairs as corn dogs.
Then comes a line-up of items that will change the way you think about Mexican food. Take the quesadilla, which can be filled with chicken, mushrooms steak, chorizo, or rajas (poblano chiles). Expectations of flour tortillas filled with cheese and stuffing will be thrown the first curve ball. And it is here that the mind plays tricks on you. The presentation is unlike what we have grown accustomed to, yet after comsumption you inherently know you just had a traditional quesadilla. The gorditas, filled with potato and chorizo are delightfully cooled by ricotta, cilantro and sour cream. Even the frijoles served in blue tin speckled dished are flavored with epazote, onions, jalapeno and smoked bacon.
Other classics such as enchiladas and flautas are expertly prepared, as if there were a Mexican abuelita (grandmother) in the kitchen. As I sit at the bar, I keep peeking into the kitchen to find her. The torta ahogada is even on the menu, a Guadalajaran pork sandwich dunked in a mild tomato salsa and then drowned in a four alarm extra hot arbol sauce. I remember the intensity of the torta in Mexico, and the several glasses of milk I downed, which is the only relief, and the version at La Superior was much tamer, but I applaud the effort. The torta comes already drowned in the bowl. I prefer two bowl and dunking the torta myself.
Then there are the tacos. A couple of perfectly round corn tortillas serving as the canvas for some slow, simmered, spiced meat, fish or chile, as ideal as a street food can aspire to be, and nothing typifies Mexico more than the perfect anytime food – the taco. At La Superior, you can do no wrong with ordering them all. The shrimp is accented with smoky chipotle. The beef tongue (lengua) transcends the taco to new heights. The pork confit is succulent, as is the cochinita pibil (slow cooked pork in banana leaves) which is layered with classic Mexican flavors. Rajas makes another appearance and should not be missed. As a special I had the duck taco which came with a spoonful of sauce called "la mentirosa", or the liar. It starts off mild, then the heat slowly builds up in the mouth creating volcanic like conditions. The pain is so pleasureable and addictive that I cleaned that spoon. Fortunately, there were enough tasty agua grescas (fruit waters) to soothe my tongue.
It is at this point that the brain starts to compare and contrast, process what exactly you have been doing by eating all of the so called “authentic” Mexican food that is so ubiquitous in every major cosmopolitan city. You may even reflect on past trips to different parts of Mexico, and wonder if you have been indeed transported there, via Williamsburg, via a taco and a Jarrito. Only your next “Mexican” meal at a different venue will tell.
The subject of service should be pointed out only in relation to the type of restaurant La Superior purports to be. The food is top notch and wholly authentic. The space resembles a truck stop. There are only a few tables and it can get overcrowded. The prices are so cheap that the staff concentrates on turnover. Lingering is not an option here. The staff is perennially busy. If you expect conversation or special attention for you baby carriage or explanation of the menu – foodies and parents beware. You wouldn’t expect that type of service from a taco truck, so therefore act accordingly. At present there is no liquor licence, so bring your own beer or tequila. Rather, at La Superior, bring an open mind and a real appetite for la cocina Mexicana.
ROOSTER RATING: 
