MOTORINO 349 East 12th Street 212.777.2644
By Rafael Mateo
Possibly the only thing rivaling the burger craze in this town is the “pizza moment”, and chefs are stepping up to the pie plate to deliver an egalitarian slice of heaven. Using artisanal ingredients and hand-crafted wood burning ovens imported from Italia, the Neopolitan style pizza has seen a renaissance like no other.
Inhabiting the space that was UPN (Una Pizza Napolitana), chef Mathieu Palombino gives Manhattanites a taste of Napoli so the trek to his flagship in Williamsburg is not required. It begs the question. Which pizza is better? A question of taste, perhaps, but more on that later.
The Manhattan menu is focused, split into antipasti and pizza. Baby brussel sprouts is the star, roasted with honey and pecorino, accented by smoky bacon. The imported octopus “Conserva” is also quite tender, although you will not be transformed to Galicia. The fire roasted mortadella and these appetizers will keep you company while sipping on wines from a carefully selected, reasonably priced all Italian wine list by Fred Dexheimer of BLT restaurants.
The Pizze choices are limited, but simply well chosen. The basic marinara is a perfect showcase for the crust, charred ethereal, a joy in and of itself, the reason for a $15,000 Acunto oven. Stracciatella emphasizes the crust even more so, absent of rich garlic flavor, substituted by basil notes. The margherita steps up the game with mozzarella, bringing harmony to the pizza of your memory. Brussel sprouts make another appearance with smoked pancetta, mozzarella, garlic, and pecorino. The depth of flavor is noticeable and appreciated. My favorite is the soppressata piccante, slightly hot soppressata and chili taking each bite to another level. I understand the use of squash in the smoked scamorzza, but I’m just not much of a fan of gourds.
I can never make it to the tiramisu, and I’m probably better off with my dear memory of the ubiquitous dessert when I first had it in Asolo, Italy over twenty years ago. I have just been afraid to order it for fear of ruining that sensation ever since. Better to order an extra pie.
There is a great lunch special, a salad and a pizza for $12.00, recession friendly as ever. Wash it down with a Menabrea beer, a recent import.
Having my business, Pata Negra, on the same street, it is difficult for me not to draw a comparison between Motorino and Una Pizza Napoletana. I remember UPN being very bright, delicious, and very expensive, a pizza that had great individual ingredients, yet lacking something when summed up as a whole. Having met chef Palombino, I have uncovered the answer to the mystery. Mr. Mangieri was not great with his clientele, nor his business neighbors. His pizza, although great, was a little withholding, the attitude of the creator reflected in the pizza’s soul. Not so at Motorino, you will find care in each slice, not reluctance, a more reasonable price, and a staff who is doing their best to accommodate the masses who line up each night.
ROOSTER RATING: 
PPP: $$ Prices range from nine to seventeen dollars per pie.
