Thai’Son 89 Baxter St 212.732.2822
by R.A.Mateo
In downtown Chinatown, (as opposed to Flushing), it can prove quite daunting trying to choose among the seemingly endless choices for Chinese cuisine. For relief, opt for Thai or Vietnamese, which are more limited and often geographically central. Take Baxter Street where several Vietnamese restaurants are lined up for the picking.
One in particular stands out because of its simplicity, pricing, and straight forward service. It is relevant to point out the subtle differences among Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese (broadly speaking) cuisines. The food at Thai Son can be compared to Cantonese, in that the flavors are from all over Vietnam, sort of cooking to the middle. When you examine a Cantonese menu, there is usually a selection of dumplings, soups, lo mein, fried rice, meats in black bean or sweet and sour sauces, and fish in garlic etc. Vietnamese menus will feature spring rolls, crepes, shrimp dishes, grilled meats, bun (rice vermicelli) and pho (soups with noodles and add-ons). Clearly there are other facets to the menus, such as vegetarian and casseroles, but these are the basics.
Let’s get familiar with some signature dishes. The most common appetizer is cha gio, or spring rolls, deep fried with pork, shrimp, or vegetables (or any combo), accompanied by lettuce wraps and a light dipping sauce. At Thai’Son they are crispy, not oily, and piping hot, wrapped in crisp lettuce leaves and mint, are addicting and delicious. Fried frog’s legs are also curious. You can’t tell if you are eating a meat or a fish. Soft shell crab is in season, and is comparable to that in any Chinese preparation, battered and fried with scallions or chives. It is at this point that pho should be the focus, a bowl of steaming slow simmered broth, anchored by rice noodles and meats. The dac biet pho is the best example of a Vietnamese staple, topped with beef brisket, navel, tendon, frank, omosa, and eye of round. The soup is light and hearty, and can easily be shared.
Of the myriad of choices to follow for main courses, my go to dishes are as follows: bo luc lac, suon bi, and ga nuong, and tom nuong. These dishes can all be ordered atop rice, but the smart move is vermicelli, spiced up by Srichacha, or the in house chili sauce. The bo luc lac (marinated beef cubes) are dressed in a dark brown, slightly tangy, slightly sweet sauce. The grilled pork chops, suon bi, are thinly sliced and a touch smoky, also very satisfying. Shrimp lovers can feast on the ga nuong, but avoid any dish with sugar cane in the description. The cane is not sweet nor does it enhance the shrimp. Do order any dish with pork chops as the star. This is the real strength of the menu, well seasoned savory grilled pork strips and chops, filling any void left in the belly.
There are casseroles and vegetables too, but unless you are in a large group it is difficult to get around to them. The drink list is attractive, with bubble teas and iced condensed milk coffees. Try a different one each time. At lunch there is the all purpose banh mi, and Thai’Son makes a good one.
Service is fast and furious. There waiters and busboys buzz around you before you can take a bite into your second order, and beware of the check. Written in indecipherable doctor’s penmanship, I was once overcharged by a few bucks. When challenged, the check was corrected. Sometimes they are too fast for their own good. The servers are friendly, though, and will remember you if you come on the regular.
I’m certain some critics will preach to me that the food at Thai’Son is not authentic or mediocre at best. That may be true, but until I eat through to the mother land, I’ll stick with my middle-Viet palate, as a short trip to a Viet nabe on a sliver of a street in downtown Chinatown suits me just fine.
