Chef Mateo

  • Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size

Top 50

E-mail Print PDF
TOP 50 

Now that 2011 is in full snowy swing, the time for lists and resolutions are most likely unfulfilled memories, and I am certain you may be sick of both already.  But reading about so many top restaurant lists on Grubstreet, Eater, Serious Eats, and the NY Times, gave me food for thought and prompted me to compile a list of my own.

It’s based on my favorites rather than what’s popular.  The list is compiled as recommendations/suggestions, not as absolutely the best etc...After all I am only one eater/drinker, although I I do feel that in this up to the second information age many diners have become prisoners of the moment and go to places because they read about it as hot or trendy, not necessarily due to the merits of the establishment.  But like following any critic, we all align ourselves to someone who generally shares our taste and sensibility, using the critic as a guide to choose among the dizzying array of choices.  My only pet peeve is that as a whole, New Yorkers, and especially those from elsewhere who call themselves New Yorkers (having lived here for only a short time) seem very preoccupied over the scene, i.e. the ambiance of a place and who else might be spotted there.  This is a criterion I utilize so I know where not to go, just as a bottle of wine that lists at 14.5% alcohol on the label is a wine I choose not to buy, in general, of course, as there are always exceptions.    If we took time to simply analyze and focus on the food and wine objectively, there may be several surprises. 

The following is a list with notes, in no particular order.

ITALIAN

Maialino – all the marks hit at Danny Meyer’s Italian casual

La Pizza Fresca – good pastas, the best Neopolian pizza, and expensive wine list

Perbacco – eclectic and EV quirky, usually interesting combos

Marea – Chef White on display here, lovely crudo, formal setting

Sfoglia – rustic fare serving as an oasis in that dead sea known as the UES

Babbo – a classic with good service, wine list and use of offal

Lupa – simple pastas and impossible waits plus good wine list

Via Emilia – under the radar with lots of Lambrusco

Giorgione – sceney, warm vibe with mixed menu and nice wines for every budget

 

JAPANESE

New Bohemian – Chef Shinoki and crew in the undergound resto with soothing space and fine plates

Sake Bar Hagi – what an izakaya is supposed to be, simple and hectic

Yakitori Totto – upscale yakitori with grilling skill

Umenoie – traditional Japanese food, no sushi here

Yakitoi Riki – late night spot for industry, cook your own meat

Kanoyama – good oyster bar and unusual cuts of fish

Tomoe – large slices, I know, but still delivers

Yama – only Irving Place branch, mayo on everything, but tasty

Greenwich Grill – miniscule portions, downstairs resto, but good sushi

Robataya – theatre Japanese food at its best, only eat at bar

Men Kui Tei – tonkatsu ramen and gyoza

Rai Rai Ken -  EV ramen, fried rice sleeper

Minca – Another EV ramen spot, good broth

 

ASIAN

Fatty Crab – go even if just for the chili crab

Sripraphai – Well known authentic Thai spot in Queens, ask for it spicy if you dare

Thai Son – Viet spot in heart of Chinatown, soups are hearty and cha gio best in city

 

CHINESE

Oriental Garden – sleeper for dim sum, seafood specialty

Phoenix Garden – best Cantonese and located in midtown, byob

Fuleen’s – late nite, have the squab, quality is high

Big Wong – cheap, soups and roast meats, the big wong donut is over rated

Ping’s – proper dim sum, go early to beat the crowds

Peking Duck House – only one dish here, and ask for the carcass to take home

Grand Sichuan – skip the Chinese-American, go for the hot stuff

Spicy and Tasty – not for the weak

X’ian’s Famous Foods – in Chinatown, noodles are made before your eyes

Dim Sum Go Go – maybe the best dumpling selection in NYC

 

AMERICAN/FRENCH

Prune – inventive and professional

Little Owl – pork chops, and meatballs, tight wine list, good luck w table

Eleven Madison Park – four star

Gabriel’s – Lincoln Center resto w a little something for every one

Ouest – expensive, but tasty

Telepan – Bill knows how to cook

Dovetail – inventive and necessary in the desert that is the UWS

Bar Boulud – solid esp for Lincoln center,expert wine list and sausages

ABC Kitchen – great newcomer, good ingredients, great cocktails

Minetta Tavern – just a heck of a lot of fun, good solid French fare

 

BRUNCH

M. Wells Diner – inventive Montreal fare, head to PS 1 after

Diner – good bloody mary, good breakfast

Egg – long waits, but these people know what an egg is

Good Enough to Eat – if you are on the UWS, best option

Barney GreenGrass – pricey, but lox w onion and egg is still top ten

Bubby’s – Triburbia mania, expensive, but local fare goodness

Bar Berry  - sleeper in the Burg, brunch capitol of New York

Balthazar – fresh baked anything, drink up

Colette’s – newcomer and doing fine

 

SEAFOOD/OYSTERS

Balthazar – pristine, expensive, proper martinis

Aqua Grill – wide selection and killer martinis - beware

Mermaid Inn – great happy hour

BLT Fish – Oysters and wine

Grand Central Oyster Bar – wide selection, good pan roasts, nice wine list

Blue Ribbon -  late nite oysters, must have fried chicken

John Dory – pristine oysters, interesting beers and soups

Mary’s Fish Camp – overall good seafood menu

Pearl – my fav for seafood, go early

 

BURGER

The Burger Joint at the Parker Meridien – my fav, right price, right setting, don’t go before 2 pm

Minetta Tavern – damn that blue label burger

Black Iron Burger – sloppy, but good

Dumont Burger – Burg sleeper

Resto – different texture, but juicy

Anthos – dead now, but that lamb burger…

Peter Luger’s – only at lunch

Brindle Room – newcomer to EV, good

 

CHOPHOUSE/STEAK

Prime Meats – Brooklyn attitude plus a trek, spotty service, but great cocktails, environment and food

Minetta Tavern – try getting in, but the closest thing we have to French steak house

Strip House -  a welcome addition serving classic cuts

BLT Prime – high end, but good

Peter Luger’s – old standby, must be a porterhouse fan

Keene’s – go for the mutton, nice wine list, best for Scotch

 

BARS

B Flat – Triburbia temple manned by Taka

Hotel Delmano – fab setting in da burg

Raines Lawroom - civilized

Little Branch – time it right to hear the jazz trio

Apotheke – cocktails hit or miss, great hideaway in Chinatown

Pegu Club – the standard, except when B & T arrive

Death and Company – good choice for EV

PDT – Forget the phone booth, good cocktails

Mayahuel -  great tequila and mescal selection

Brandy Library - civilized

The Ear Inn - proper

Employees Only – it’s a zoo, but it’s fun

 

WINE BARS

Ten Bells – wine lover’s selection

Otto – extensive Italian wine list, avoid the “pizza”

Ino, Inoteca – the standard

Sakagura – sake delight, do not skip dessert

Buvette - Jody at her best, nice wine list

 

PIZZA

La Pizze Fresca – authentic Neopolitan style, forget the rest

Sal and Carmine’s – classic NY slice

Franny’s – delicious stuff, nice backyard and wine list

 

OTHER

Taboon – great middle eastern, try to stop eating the bread

Solera – tapas at the bar

Resto – frites and moules and bieres

La Superior – proper tacos and agua fresca

 

Restaurants I would include but have not visited ever, or in some time:

Grammercy Tavern

Per Se

Daniel

Bouley

Corton

Soto

Town

Mas

Sushi Yasuda

Atelier Joel Robuchon

WD-50

 

MOST OVERRATED RESTAURANTS:

Momofuku & SSam bar – used to be good, but now, over thought dishes, ridiculous service, seats without backs, noise levels of the subway and lines of B & T wannabees.   Pork buns and fried chicken the only redeeming quality.

Ippudo – it’s ramen, expensive, and not the best, so why all the hype?

Locanda Verde – taste the food please, I know it’s De Niro owned, but we’re not in LA people.

Breslin Bar – no resto is worth that attitude, no disrespect to Chef Bloomfield. BTW, The Spotted Pig is a bar, not a comfortable restaurant by any stretch.  I fear the ‘tude has spilled over into John Dory as well.

D’ell Anime – hands down the worst attitude and service I have experienced in NYC, bottle service a hot mess

Boqueria – has anyone ever been to Spain? Seriously?

Freeman’s Alley – downhill skiing folks

Salumeria Rossi – Cold cuts and overdone pasta and a staff who believes that prosciutto is actually better than pata negra

Coffee Shop – and no, not even the dessert or samba is worth it

Shun Lee Place – enough already with Chinese American, the food lacks flavor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Newsflash


online.wsj.com
While restaurants fought the city's new grading method, there is another aspect of the system that in some ways has created even more angst: the fines.