Chef Mateo

Cava Time in the City

July 9, 2007

 by Rafael Mateo

In the midst of the first summer heat wave, New Yorkers look for relief in the comfort of the all important air conditioner, or a trip to the shore for cool ocean breeezes.  My answer to the humidity is always the same: champagne.  As I check my stock, I realize that I won't get through July, much less August, as a champagne budget can prove quite costly.  The answer is a very good alternative: Cava, sparkling wine fashioned in the methode-champenoise from Spain.

The classical wines of Penedes distinguish themselves by their light and fruity character, good terroir to grow champagne-like cava. These white sparklers are fresh and meant to be drunk young, and the grapes produced are macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada and of course chardonnay. The reds are pleasant and easy quaffers and are generally comprised of garnacha and tempranillo, although cabernet and merlot are being planted in force.

Fresh cava poured from the barrels in Spain holds the regal qualities of champagne, and one can see why the comparison is made so adamantly by Spaniards. On my two trips to Sant Sadurni I can almost agree. As for the methode-champenoise, a good way to start an argument in Penedes is the discussing the autonomy of Catalunya and the invention of creating sparkling wine.  Legend has it that Dom Perignon visited  Sant Sadurni and learned the technique from winemakers in Spain.  The French argue the opposite.  Whatever the historical case may be, cava lacks the aging potential of good champagne, and that is where the argument halts for me. By the time the bottles travel to the states, the cavas do not taste as fresh to me, but still there is tremendous value, and faith can be placed in the hands of good producers.

As summer is in full swing, cava becomes quite handy, especially for picnics, the beach, and barbecues. Cavas generally cost under $15.00. The following is a list of non-vintage cavas with brief tasting notes:

 

Avinyo - pale dry and mild - 83

Castellroig - fruity, sweet & bitter -  82

Codorniu - classic, crisp - 85

Cristalino Rosado - great value - 84

Freixenet - classic, ubiquitous - 82

Jaume Serra - balance of bitter & sweet - 85

Joseph Masachs - dry, yeasty - 85

Juve & Camps - full-bodied, yeasty - 87

Llopart Rosado - sweet, strawberries - 86

Marques de Monistrol - citrus, fruity - 84

Masia l’Hereu - typical, toasty - 84

Naveran - dry, mild - 83

Raventos I Blanc - classic - 85

Segura Viudas - earthy, toasty - 87

Sumarroca - organic & bready - 88

Villafranca - pale w/ green fruits - 84

Due to the price and abundance, try them without worry.  Cava is quite food versatile. Start with oysters and you’ll see. Drink Spain!