Navarre Toasts a Wider World
Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
FOR 25 years one of the great wine stories has been the rapid transformation of sluggish, antiquated local production networks into dynamic winemakers to the world.
Nowhere has this been more striking than in Europe’s longtime vinous backwaters, regions that for centuries churned out the village plonk, which was usually sold in bulk.
With the transportation and communication revolutions of the 20th century, to say nothing of the economic, social and political changes that have opened trade pretty much around the world, wine drinkers everywhere no longer had to settle for what their parents drank. They had choices, which is no small thing in human history.
The evolving wine business required the people who made the plonk and the farmers who sold their grapes to the people who made the plonk to fundamentally rethink what they were doing. They would have to adopt modern techniques of viticulture and winemaking to survive.