Chef Mateo

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Wine Reviews

2005 Egly-Ouriet Brut "Les Vignes de Vrigny"

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Made with 100% Pinot Meunier from 40 year-old vines, this is an unusual Champagne, spicy, racy and  vinous.  The Pinot Meunier grape is planted southward from Champagne all the way to Orleans and tends  to be a little herbaceous.  But due to Egly-Ouriet's low yields and late harvesting, this Ambonnay drinks like a beauty.  Duck magret with asparagus is a suberb match.


Rooster Score: 93


 

1999 Chateau Pontet-Canet

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Having tasted this in a vertical spanning five years ('98-'02), the 1999 stuck its neck out like a rooster to announce its dominance. This wine was medium-bodied and sported a purplish/ruby color.  The balance of fruit to acidity was good, as hints of black currants emerged after several hours of decanting.  This was not a powerhouse Pauillac, rather an intellectual wine with earthy undertones and subdued pleasure.  It easily overshadowed the 1998 and the 2000 vintage, and paired well with a sheperd's pie.

ROOSTER SCORE: 88
 

Wine Book Reviews

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BOOKS ON THE GRAPEVINE

April 4, 2006

With the continued rising interest in wine, the market is providing several books on the subject, from basics to reviews to history. Wine writing can become very technical and otherwise boring, but storytelling has become an important component to the latest wave of books being offered.


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1998 Movia Pinot Noir

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Wines from Movia are unusual.  First of all they are made in Slovenia, bordering northern Italy.  Ales Kristancic makes a wide range of unique wines. His techniques are like his counterpart, across the border, Gravner, and the whites are usually what are lauded.  That being said, I have mixed feelings about this pinot noir.  I have tasted this wine twice in one month, and the results are conflicting.  When I first tried it, with a hearty plate of osso bucco, the wine shone brightly after a glorious, heralded aged Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino.  The pinot noir was refreshing and light bodied, well balanced and exotic.  The second time I tasted it however, the wine seemed a bit too international in style and a bit fatigued.  It also did not match well with a plate of lamb and gnocchi.  I have tremendous respect for this winery.  Perhaps that's why I will taste this wine again soon.

ROOSTER SCORE: 88
 

2004 Iron Horse Late Harvest Viognier

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I am not a fan of dessert wines.  They're just too sweet.  I suppose that is the purpose, but I look for a dessert wine to compliment dessert, not give me a tooth hangover.  Iron Horse uses a viognier grape here for the T Bar T vineyard offering, and I think viognier should be looked at more closely as a grape that can be used for more balanced sweet wines.  I tasted this with a chocolate soufflait, and it did not add more sugar to the mix.  Rather it balanced quite nicely.


ROOSTER SCORE:  89
 


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